FASHION DESIGNERS AND THEIR ”RIGHT HANDS”

We are celebrating the people behind the scenes who make the magic happen…

Text: Konstantinos Damis

Raf Simons – Pieter Mulier

Raf Simons calls Pieter Mulier his ‘right hand’ and boy in the behind-the-scenes documentary about the eight weeks to the designer’s first haute couture collection at Dior. Mulier, after studying architecture at Belgium’s Royal Academy, was invited by Simons to do an internship at his own label before he ended up in 2002 working full-time for Simons. “It evolved from being colleagues to a friendship now. I always think it’s like a ping pong game. He taught me a lot about art – you know his references are a lot of art and architecture – and luckily this is also my background so this helps and I think it works in both ways.”-Pieter Mulier

fwbvk_rafsimon_huffingtonpostRaf Simons, Photo: huffingtonpost.com

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Raf Simons, Photo: guardian.com

fwbvk_rafsimons_pietermulier_Dior&I_courtesyofdiorRaf Simons & Pieter Mulier at Dior &I documentary movie, Photo: courtesy of Dior

fwbvk_rafsimons_pietermulier_Dior&I_courtesyofdior2Raf Simons & Pieter Mulier at Dior &I documentary movie, Photo: courtesy of Dior

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Raf Simons & Pieter Mulier at Dior &I documentary movie, Photo: courtesy of Dior

fwbvk_pietermulier_sterlingrubyxrafsimonscoat_JPMVPieter Mulier wearing Sterling Ruby x Raf Simons coat, Photo: JPMV

 

Karl Lagerfeld – Virginie Viard

When it comes to Karl, then there is not going to be only one right hand, but three(!!!). From Virginie Viard, Chanel’s creative studio director to his longtime creative consultant Amanda Harlech till Sébastien Jondeau, Lagerfeld’s handsome personal assistant. Virginie Viard remains his closest partner for over 20 years and she is widly known as Lagerfeld’s right hand at Chanel. She is his everyday muse – bringing the eight collections a year to reality for him – and he was famously quoted as saying he’d be “paralysed without” her, according to rush. They met when Viard was in her early 20s, interning at Chanel and their connection was more than clear and instant.

fwbvk_CHANELteam_harpersbazaarChanel team, Photo: harpersbazaar.com

fwbvk_CHANELteam_harpersbazaar1Chanel team, Photo: harpersbazaar.com

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Karl Lagerfeld shoots Virgienie Viard, Photo: Olivier Saillant

fwbvk_VIRGINIEVIARD_CRASHFRVirginie Viard, Photo: Crashfr

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Virginie Viard, Photo: Purple Magazine

fwbvk_VIRGINIEVIARD_russhmagazineVirgine Viard, Photo: Russh Magazine

 

Nicholas Ghesquiere – Marie Amelie Sauvé

Sauvé is to Ghesquiere a second pair of eyes, his eternal muse and his endless inspiration.The stylist began consulting at Trussadi in 1997, but left immidiatelly to join Nicolas Ghesquière, who took up the creative directorship of Balenciaga that same year. “I used to come to the studio: he was making clothes and I was trying them on myself, so it was very playful and really creative. We were constantly experimenting and were quite strong-willed.”- Marie Amelie Sauvé. Together, the two gave a new direction to the historic house of Balenciaga, transforming it into one of the hottest shows at Paris Fashion Week. The long-time friends and collaborators continue to work together for Louis Vuitton, with Sauvé still going to the studio, working on the shows and advertising along on other aspects of the brand.

fwbvk_advertisingwork_marieameliesauve_balenciagaAdvertisingwork of Marie-Amelie Sauve for Balenciaga, Photo: courtesy of Balenciaga

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Marie Amelie Sauve at her office, Photo: vogue.co.uk

fwbvk_mariemaeliesauve_nicholasghesquiere_adarMarie Amelie Sauve & Nicholas Ghesquiere, Photo: Adar

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Marie Amelie Sauve & Nicholas Ghesquiere, Photo: Annie Leibovitz

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Marie Amelie Sauve & Nicholas Ghesquiere, Photo: Self Service Magazine

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Marie Amelie Sauve, Self Service Magazine, Photo:Tung Walsh

 

 Valentino – Giancarlo Giammetti

Giancarlo Giammeti is Valentino  Garavani’s long-term partner, lover and employee. He is the business mind behind the brand and has worked over 45 years at the house. He is also the guy, who pointed out the finger to Valentino about the bronzer.

fwbvk_giammetti_kurkova_palermo_vogueGiammetti alongside with Karolina Kurkova & Olivia Palermo, Photo:vogue.com

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Giammetti & Valentino arguing midflight, Photo: from the The Last Emperor biography movie

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Giammetti & Valentino, Photo: wwd.com

fwbvk_giammetti_valentino_prestigeGiammetti & Valentino, Photo: courtesy of Prestige

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Giammetti & Valentino, Photo: Jonathan Becker

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Giammetti, Valentino & Jackie O, Photo: from The Last Emperor biography movie

 

Yves Saint Laurent – Pierre Berge

Yves Saint Laurent met Berge  in 1958. They became romantically involved and launched together Yves Saint Laurent Couture House in 1961. The couple split in 1976 and remained lifelong close friends and business partners. During Bergé’s eulogy of Saint Laurent, he remembered the memories of their together-lifetime, saying ; “I remember your first collection under your name and the tears at the end. Then the years passed. Oh, how they passed quickly. The divorce was inevitable but the love never stopped.”

FWBVK_PIERREBERGE_YSL_1953_MARRAKESH_1982_THEREDLISTYSL & Pierre Berge circa 1953 in Marrakech, Photo: Theredlist

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YSL & Pierre Berge ,1953, Photo: Theredlist

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YSL AW 1968, Photo: Fondation of Pierre-YSL

FWBVK_PIERREBERGE_YSL_ELSAMARTINELLI_FRANCOISEHARDY_CATHERINEDENEUVEFront row at YSL, Elsa Martinelli, Francoise Hardy, Catherine Deneuve, Photo: Courtesy of YSL

FWBVK_PIERREBERGE_YSL_EVENINGGOWN_AW70_ESTATEOFJEANLOUPSIEFFYSL evening gown AW1970, Photo: Estate of  Jean Loupsieff

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YSL, L’ Amour Fou Documentary (2010)

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Pierre Berge & YSL ,Photo: L’Amour Fou Documentary (2010)

FWBVK_PIERREBERGE_YSL_STUDIO_1977_ANDREWPERLSTEINPierre Berge & YSL at Studio, 1977, Photo: Andew Perlstein

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Pierre Berge & YSL, Photo: vogue.com

 

Helmut Lang – Kostas Murkudis

Kostas Murkudis is a Greek fashion designer graduated from Lette-Verein School in Berlin. He had been Helmut Lang’s right hand for almost a decade before he launched his own brand and collection with strong neutral tones and raw cutting as the basis of his own brand.

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Kostas Murkudis FW 14-15, Photo: kostasmurkudis.com

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Kostas Murkudis by Magnus Reed

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Kostas Murkudis FW 2011, Photo: kostasmurkudis.com

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Kostas Murkudis FW 2012, Photo: kostasmurkudis.com