Paris. The eternal capital of fashion capitals, exciting, always to the point, always chic, always edgy, always something new brought on the table. This time was much more than any expectation.
Text: Konstantinos Damis
Starting with the fashion editors current obsession, named Vetements , we have to say that the Margiela influenced designer Demna Gvasalia presented his work to much critical acclaim, combining leather mens detouched tailoring with long-sleeved sweatshirts and undone button downs, remind us of something David Bowie or at least a fashion design student would die to wear. Anarchic but practical at the same time. On the other hand, Stella McCartney as she said, explored the relationship between the artist and the muse, giving us great 80’s inspired forms and slouchy with ultra cool details suits and borrowed from the boys jackets along with elegant waistcoats, whereas the world traveller Isabel Marant took inspiration from her latest trip to India and used patterns from
Rajasthan while it was all combined with metallic shorts and trench coats with embroidered tunics underneath.
Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen showed her most fresh collection ever without dramatic hats or extraordinary shaped garments,only with sensitive and poetic vibes,lace gowns who touched the ground and metallic jackets who stood as an antithesis to the feminine millefeuille lace and ruffle full dresses, very delicated and chic with a hidden dramatic effect behind the freshly scrubbed models faces. A true favorite among others was the Saint Laurent collection,which remind us of a distressed princess soaked in a glittery mix of glamour,yet rock n roll Lifestyle. Not having something in common with Heidi Slimane,Yang Li presented a study on the form of typical garments as blouses and wide leg trousers,proving once again what a huge influence for the newcomers Martin Margiela is.As far as the artsy side of Fashion is concerned,Rei Kawakubo and Jacquemus had a very strong presence both using a childlike vocabulary with a naive spirit.