Teatro alla Scala hosted this year the spring/summer 2015 Alta Moda, by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The designers introduced, for the very first time, to their precious guest list of 150 people “Alta Sartoria”. A fanciful and umique Haute Couture men’s collection.
Text: Sofia Makri
An extravagant show with touches of ballet. The house of Dolce & Gabbana gave their guests a three-day spectacle of drama, dance and a flavor of 18th-century. The audience delight a special high jewelry event, a captivating performance of the ballet star Roberto Bolle and the Alta Moda spring/summer 2015 collection for women and men. The design duet improves that anything can happen. Caution men! It’s your time. Open your wallets and stay tuned because D&G introduce you the first Haute Couture men collection.
The show offered two prospective of men’s style: tsarist and gilded. Alta Sartoria includes canonical patterns, foulard ties, floral buttonholes, astrakhan hat and scarf, overcoats, velvet jacket, shiny slippers, mink mittens, box bomber jacket. Of course, it has to be noticed that white ties, shortened tailcoats and tuxedos had a special place to the show. Suzy Menkes wrote in Vogue, “If a man wants to be noticed for the cut of his brocade jackets Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Sartoria is about as high, in craftsmanship, quality and style, as men’s fashion can get.”
But we have to consider that Alta Sartoria was a brand new idea or D&G want to transfer the bespoke tailoring from Savile Row to catwalk?
Let’s wade deeper to this question. As it is known Savile Row is an elite quarter of Mayfair, central London, famous for bespoke tailoring. Royal families and the richest people all over the world choose to make their suits there because of the quality and the uniqueness. The clients acquires sur-mesure bespoke tailoring and fabrics of their choice. The patterns are handmade and cut by a master cutter. Also, the client can have a fully supervision to all the processes. All the garments have a unique identity as they are made not only from tailors but as well from the byers. Savile Row has a tradition over 200 years and it is the place that offers the best bespoke tailoring around the world.
From the other hand, we have D&G. They made an Haute Couture men’s collection with completely unique pieces by specialist tailors. To buy one of those you have to take an appointment, express your idea about your garment and the fabrics that will be used and of course they will make it sur-mesure. Exactly the same thing with Savile’s Row bespoke except that those tailors walked in the catwalk.
So the question that comes to my mind is : The designers want to competitive the tradition or they desire to make their own one. The fact is they refer to the same group of consumers. The presumptions are all yours !