Text: Gaia Deligianni
Roger Vivier or the ”Faberge of Shoes”, as was known, once told Vogue: ”A shoe does not create fashion, but it can influence fashion”, and so, by beginning with his 1954 stiletto, he elevated Dior’s New Look to glorious heights.
From his daring cork platform shoes to Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s and his thigh-high crocodile boots for Yves Saint Laurent in the 1960s, Vivier was always one step ahead.
Among the luminaries orbiting Vivier were Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich and Diana Vreeland, who insisted her maid polish the soles of her Viviers on a daily basis. Vreeland was among the many who regarded Vivier’s work as true art. In her 1977 Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute exhibit, ”Vanity Fair”, she contrasted examples of his craftsmanship with that of 18th-century artisans.
A retrospective exhibition of Roger Vivier’s life and work is coming to Paris and will be staged at the Palais de Tokyo in October curated by Olivier Saillard, director of the Musee Galliera.The showcase is titled Virgule, etc…Dans Les Pas De Roger Vivier (Comma, etc…In The Footsteps of Roger Vivier), named so after the designer’s famous comma-shaped heels.
The retrospective will pay tribute to the brand’s founder, who died in 1998, as well as standing in the recent history of the footwear label.
The exhibition will run from October 2 to November 18, 2013