PFW: Valentino & Chanel

Text: Gaia Deligianni

 

VALENTINO: Austere grace

Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli turned to the portraiture work of Flemish painters to present a full-of-youth serene and sophisticated at the same time collection.

Making a study on white collars, the designers added these laser-cut leather art-pieces to many of their severe and covered up interpretations of beauty, like long-sleeve A-line shifts in wool and short alpaca coats, as well as in more ornate creations.

Short dresses showed up, crafted out of rich tapestry fabrics or covered in brightly coloured floral embroidery.

More daring designs for the Valentino collection were the dresses with 3D scalloped edged sleeves and some magnificent white and blue printed dresses, inspired by Delft ceramics pattern.

Naturally, as we’re talking for a Valentino collection, there was no lack of ultra-feminine gowns, but this collection was truly characterized by rigorous construction and dedication to craft.

 

 

CHANEL: Modern-Classic power

Karl Lagerfeld revealed his latest collection for Chanel through a catwalk show that took place at the Grand Palais in Paris. A 50ft tall spinning globe covered in 300 illuminated flags bearing the famous double CC logo of the house was at the centre of the catwalk, as models walked around it.

A confident, energetic black-ruled with a punch of blues, pinks and white collection was something, utterly seductive for everyone. The models seemed to be protected covered all up, apart from the flash of thigh, between the leather leggings and the hem of a coat or a pleated mini skirt.

Some of them wore fur bonnets but they all wore black, chunky-heeled or flat boots, decorated with silver chains at the ankle or studded soles.

The explosions of monochrome flowers and possibly feathers on the coats at the end of the show, and a patent leather combo striped with white lace, could make someone conclude that Karl Lagerfeld made some statement pieces of clothing.

 Photos via Style.com