Text: Katerina Gkoumopoulou, Danae Terzakou
STELLA MCCARTNEY: Mannish Gal
It seems like Stella McCartney had a rough time to decide between a masculine or a feminine look. The silhouette was rather mannish-meets-boxy. In a few words: Men’s coats combined with cropped or pleated trousers, double-breasted jackets worn over long, loose skirts, stripped turtleneck sweaters that topped flippy miniskirts and unstructured dresses in a variety of lengths; it can either be maxi or several inches below the knee. Backstage the designer herself talked about “inserting the feminine into masculine”. But, so oversized the clothes were, that the models were a bit lost in them. The colour palette was rather dark, with and emphasis on the dark gray –yet not by itself but tucked in with strict, job-appropriate white stripes-, the black and the ultra-violet –especially in those breath talking silk dresses. However, there was a touch of white, to break this rather moody collection. “It’s about being honest to what we are, timeless classics but also inserting a femininity,” she said. Well, McCartney’s creations has always been a blend of impeccable style and fantasy, that bring out, apart from feminine figures, the essence of old-time classic -in this collection especially.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / InDigital | GoRunway
SAINT LAURENT: Smells Like Hedi’s Spirit
Hedi Slimane’s second collection for the house is technically a hymn to grunge. Praise Kurt Cobain’s plaid shirts, the mini leather dresses that Courtney Love would adore and the killer biker boots. This brand new Saint Laurent girl is a genuine Nirvana spirit, with tres untidy hair and vast music influences. This was for the young generation of Saint Laurent customer -the baby dolls, the schoolgirl slips, duffle coats that topped vintage florals, the over-the-top sloppy cardigans, plaid shirts, sparkly dresses embellished with ironic strings of pearls and black bows, leather miniskirts, biker jackets and leather boots- garments that give a constant feeling of moody rebellion on the run. It appears that Slimane felt a bit nostalgic about the nineties. It was a rather retrospective collection. Almost nothing looked new. Like Anna Sui and Marc Jacobs once did with their rather pop-cultured collections influenced by the Factory and The Bealtes, he drew inspiration from the mighty and powerful impulse of the teens. This fall the legacy is grunge not YSL.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / InDigital | GoRunway
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI: When a Girl seeks for Boy-chic
“I like to find a balance between boy meets girl, by melding their wardrobes together”, said Giambattista Valli from the backstage. He managed to have two worlds sorted, Pret-A-Porter inspired by his idiosyncrasy and Haute Couture drawn from the unexplored roads of his fantasy land. To sum up: utilitarian and be-zipped coats and trousers alongside rather odd, Pierrot-like collars, lipstick-red florals and pastel pinks of draped sheer skirts and fine fur dresses. His look d’ allure was a classically draped cocktail dress or a rather formal brocade suit –all in a pastel palette- along with Vans-like, furry loafers. “As soon as I started doing couture there became two angles, still parallel but also defined”, said the designer. Then Valli made a sporty twist in his collection, by adding playful tracksuits, mannish sweatshirts or zipped coats, along with their matching trousers in red or white. Be-dazzling gowns and black and white leopard sequins were Valli’s touch of glam and opulence. The coats and jackets were rather favored in this collection. A collection where practical and real meets va va voum and extravagant.
Photo: Gianni Pucci / InDigital | GoRunway