PFW: Gaultier, Ackermann, Viktor & Rolf

Text: Sophia Karagianni



At the historical home of the brand, Salle Wagram, where he has presented some of the most memorable collections of the early years of his career, Jean Paul Gaultier showed his collection for Fall/Winter 2013-14, which was more serious than ever before, but modern at the same time. Gaultier’s fetish piece, the cone-shape busts, made its appearance, as well as fur. There was an emphasis on strong pointed shoulders. What catch the eye on the show was the prints of women’s silhouettes, the same one that could be seen on the backdrop of the catwalk, that looked like a series of negative pictures. Gualtier gave us also hoods, pleated long flowing skirts in black and red, leather coats, leather and fur tippets and patchwork in a variety of fabrics, from leather to taffeta.



In a dry ice mist the models run down the catwalk, wearing Ackermann’s Fall 2013 designs. It was all about power and elegance!  “There are so many strong women that I’m surrounded by”, Ackermann explained, “but as strong as they are, there’s a lot of fragility in them, and I wanted to capture this”. Oversized shapes and layers of powerful suits, jackets and coats came in a brilliant color harmony and heavy tweeds of grey and white. The sleeves were extending almost to the knees. The use of fur was something new for the French designer, while tailoring was his main interest at the show.  Also, a military influence was obvious on Ackermann’s collection, with coats and jackets in khaki and brown shades. Fabrics were also heavy and defensive. The grand evening statement was with no doubt the gray velvet one-shoulder column dress with the scarf tie, defined with supreme elegance.



The designer duo, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren went from complex to more relaxed and wearable designs. “It’s slightly rebellious, slightly sophisticated”, they said after the show. Ruffles and bows, the brand’s signature decorated dresses, skirts and shirts. The show ran all in black and white, with the red shoes making the difference. They kept the silhouettes short, with little mini skaters-skirts and dresses. The looks consisted also of double-breasted jackets, vests, and smart loafers. The designers embroidered and embellished some of the clothes, into a ripped and trompe l’oeil effect.