PFW: Mugler & Rochas

Text: Irene Goufa

MUGLER

Creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Sebastien Peigné approached their fall collection as if they were charged with wardrobe duty on the set of a sci-fi fantasy noir. They sought to capture “the idea of travel through time, in style”, as Formichetti stated in the show notes. There was more than a tinge of retro futurism in the surreal. Thankfully, the luxury element eliminated most of the fabrics and we saw very good qualities. What we noticed were the grey cocoon jackets with vintage couture curved shoulders, over slim skirts with bunchy kangaroo pockets.

As the reporters said “It’s a shame that the low heel height gave an ungainly, tilted-back gait to these silhouettes, as these otherwise ladylike silhouettes had something of the Hitcockian heroine to them, with their demurred femme fatale sensuality”. Also, their heads were hidden under large and stiff white leather kerchiefs, a quite interesting element. The flat greys, the bright pastel peach and yellow, the petrol blue provided the perfect palette to paint this retro-futurist airport.

Yet, there’s something fun and amusing to Formichetti and Peigné’s bizarre vision.

     

 

 

ROCHAS

Designer Marco Zanini is a real fan of the 1950s. He travels Rochas again and again back to this age of hourglass shapes and feminine glamour. For the fall/winter 2013 season Zanini created a collection for women who are not in a hurry. A sense of comfort dominated all levels, beginning with the materials, which included Prince of Wales wool on a bounty of beautiful coats. We saw nice pyjamas from silk in vintage pink tones and slightly oversized egg shaped dresses, that moved freely on the catwalk. Volume had a big part to play on the Rochas runway. Much of this collection was cut in jumbo proportions.  But it wasn’t just the shapes that were big; the fabrics were pretty rich themselves too. Cut into exaggerated volumes with classic couture shapes on grand trapeze coats, and full skirts folded into big pleats.

Zanini is an inventive colorist and has a romantic vision of women. It’s nice to see him trying to give them a collection that will make them feel as good as they look. All in all, it was a very feminine collection.

Photos via style.com, vogue.co.uk.