PFW: Dries Van Noten

This show was the marriage of British elegance to ostrich-feathered ostentation and we really liked it!

Text: Irene Gkoufa

 

This time Dries Van Noten managed to keep the volatility of the original while keeping it utterly captivating. This is a collection of extremes and as the reviews said “Van Noten wasn’t thinking of Hollywood marriage per se -he did reference another on-screen union —Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers— with a wacky take on his soundtrack of “Cheek to Cheek”. He tried to focus on traditional fabrics and outsized proportions. From the first look he had an amply proportioned coat with explosive red and gold embroidery down one side, belted with a skinny strip of crystals and worn over gray trousers. He continued with tailoring, and a jacket over skirt over pants. With the British wools as his base, the designer introduced rich, pale brocades into the mix. Every look was feminine and masculine at the same time. What we liked most were the sweater looks- particularly the slouchy dark grey knit over a tiered, tailored skirt.

As for the feathers, they made their first sparse (though hardly discreet) appearance as here-and-there wisps fastened with crystals to a grey men’s coat.  “And what’s really the opposite of men’s wear is the exaggerated women’s wear,” he said during a preview. “For me, I think about ice-skating. The diamond embellishment is there, the stones are always just a little bit bigger; the decoration is often feathers and fringes. It’s kind of the women’s wear invading the men’s elements in the collection”.