MFW: Gianfranco Ferre & Emilio Pucci

Text: Danae Terzakou

 

 

GIANFRANCO FERRE: In A Land Of Belts And Layers

 

Belt it up! Was probably the motto of the duo Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron – the creative directors of the house after the death of the Italian designer. A duo, known for their sculptural aesthetic, able to create a futuristic effect through refined and elegant shapes. Jackets and skirts, edgy dresses and fabulous coats all came layered, though there was a precision in their cut –always with a sci-fi approach. Smocking jackets made of fine materials such as satin, halter tops and enormous scarves along with double-waistband pants were included to this vast collection –more like work of art. But, no looks were complete without a belt. They would either fastened it, twisted and tamed it in a way to stay in line with the rest of the shapes and create a great deal of layers. The accentuate colours were white –as the marble-, black, the lightest shade of grey and a lovely pastel beige. A great new start for the fashion house, that’s for sure.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam I GoRunway

 

EMILIO PUCCI: The Retrospective Collection

 

A blend of Sixties sensibility and Seventies mania for fringed jackets and sequinned shifts. Just a few words to describe Pucci’s collection for A/W 2013. Two decades that the creative director, Peter Dundas, managed to revive, and with great success. The ages of sex appeal and glamour. It was all very short and very sexy. As he memorably put it, “I make clothes that women want to put on and men want to take off”. There was a great deal of black lace, T-shirts- tunics worn as dresses and shaggy fuzzy mohair coats in pastel shades: pink, violet, sky blue and nude, embellished with black and gold buttons, a bohemian spirit leading throughout the collection. Balancing out all those miniature dresses were way-over-the-knee stunning suede boots, either in black or in brown hues. Over the course of the last few collections, Dundas has been avoiding Pucci’s jet-set heritage, a.k.a prints. Not this season. Intentionally or not, this show seemed almost to bring him full circle. Breath-taking fringed mini-dresses, a vast collection of shorts in zebra-print, ponyskin and black leather and on top of those the gorgeous tunik dresses. A great combination of the past and the present.

Photo: Monica Feudi / InDigital | GoRunway