LFW: Burberry Prorsum & Giles

Take a look at two of the most impressive catwalk shows, which managed to amaze us with the uniqueness of their pieces!

Text: Maria Meintani

 

BURBERRY PRORSUM: A Scandal Inspired Runway

When hearing that Burberry’s latest collection was named after Christine Keeler, one can be sure that it was about time for Mr. Bailey to get a little naughty!
Watching a preppy brand drawing inspiration from the infamous showgirl that nearly brought down the British government in 1963? Whoa! Keeler shocked the public by being involved in the Profumo affair back then, and so did Bailey, by choosing her as his muse for his latest collection, named “Trench Kisses: A Collection of Classics and Christine Keeler”.

Knee-length outfits, earthly colours and kitten heels were used in an attempt to balance the kinky theme of the collection with the modest character of the British brand. However, accessories like metal belts and collars along with the golden trims on the clothes, added to the sexy character of the pieces.

Dresses that accentuate the silhouette and ensembles of tops and midi skirts, all having a metal belt emphasizing the waist, composed this fresh collection. We also got to see the brand’s iconic trench coat, either enhanced with latex details or being totally metallic, while other pieces were trimmed with wide stripes, leopard prints and abstract dotted patterns. Another detail we loved was the heart motif that we first spotted in the previous men’s collection of the brand, in Milan.
Wendy Rowe was responsible for the make-up of the models. Inspired by the Sixties vibes, she wanted to create a natural, yet sexy look. The hair, taken care exclusively with Moroccanoil products, was blowdried and treated so as it would look messy but in a natural way.

The front row of the show was full of celebrities and fashion related crowd, such as Rosie Huntington-Whiteley with Freida Pinto and Rita Ora, Kate Beckinsale with Tom Hooper, Mélanie Laurent, Gabriella Wilde and many many more.

 

GILES: The Melancholic Fallen Angels

Kristen McMenamy opened the show, looking like a bride between heaven and hell, dressed in a long white silk dress and followed by models dressed in the same half bridal-have macabre way. The show took place in the Stationer’s Hall, a 17th century venue which bears great resemblance to the Saint Paul’s Cathedral that houses the monument of Viscount Melbourne, whose doorway is said to lead either to heaven or hell, depending on which side you stand. This monument was the main source of inspiration for Deacon and we guess that his collection would stand somewhere in the middle as it featured elements from both sides.

Oversized balloon sleeves, gold laser-cut leather pieces, floor-length skirts and psychedelic patterns were all parts of this grunge inspired collection, which also had a sense of baroque style.

The main feature of the collection was definitely the craftsmanship, Deacon’s most recognisable characteristic. “This takes time, all of this work”, he said after the show. “The latticed leather bodices alone, took two months to perfect and complete. It simply is not fast fashion; it is fashion that is flamboyant, specialist, creative, and can often be made to order. It really should stand apart in that way”. And it surely did. His grandiose, theatrical outfits were like nothing else presented during this fashion week.

As for the beauty part, Lucia Pieroni created a rather macabre make up, with bruised looking eyes set with pale skin and bare lips. “This girl is Goth”, she said, going on to inform us that her work was greatly inspired by Tim Burton. On the other hand, the hairstyle of the models was influenced by Kristen McMenamy. Her well known love for long hair impelled the hairstylist Paul Hanlon to give all models some 24-inch extensions which had previously been water misted and braided, in order to achieve a natural, wet wavy style.  Some of the models were also given oversized beanies to wear, a great hit of this season.