Text: Katerina Gkoumopoulou, Danae Terzakou
MULBERRY: Leather, coats and rock n’ roll
A dark cloud has covered Mulberry. This season Emma Hill, the creative director of the house, aims for a new mood, a new attitude. Over-sized coats, elegant and fuzzy textiles and skirts over cropped trousers. So outstanding were the outfits, that the models could easily disappear in it. For a more sophisticated and formal look, there was range of laced dresses, luxurious jackets and leather works of art, let alone the emphasis on disproportions and dark colours. Wine red, black and emerald was of great significance, though in some cases there was a touch of embellishment in yellow hues. What a great selection of outwear. Strong and cocky sleeves along with tunik dresses – with trousers beneath- in brown or green tweed plaid, sheepskin embroidery at the collars and loose hair worn tucked on. Aside from those, a variety of prints, from fine materials stood out, throughout the collection.
Photos: Filippo Fior/ InDigital I GoRunway
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON: The New Look
“It was really about using light and energy to bring something else to monochrome and grey and black”, said the designer backstage. Matthew Williamson is the only designer that can bring a touch of light and colour into the cold, harsh winter. Geometric tailoring and relaxed shapes are all over the collection. There was a bohemian sensibility throughout the collection. For the day, a variety of pleated skirts and laced jumpers and for the evening, plenty of dazzling sequin dresses. There was also an injection of va-va-voum coats, either in knit, fur, chevron or fuzzy sequin. “The idea was to move the silhouette on, to look loose, move away from form-fitted and to be relaxed”. The palette was almost that of a rainbow, with colours such as turquoise, yellow and magenta to stand out. Definitely a collection that can cheer you up, whatever the weather.
Photos: Marcus Tondo/ InDigital I GoRunway