LFW: Mary Katrantzou & Julien MacDonald

Text: Sophia Karagianni

 

MARY KATRANTZOU: Misty Monochrome

Focusing on shape and silhouette and leaving prints and colors on the back seats, Mary Katrantzou presented in London her latest innovative collection for Fall 2013. This season, the designer showed rounded shapes and a touch of geisha-influenced wrapping and folding, asymmetric cuts, bell-shaped skirts, off-the-shoulder structures and geometric patterns. She worked with black and white, inspired as she mentioned, by early-twentieth-century Edward Steichen’s, Clarence White’s, and Alfred Stieglitz’s photographs. “I wanted to step back from color and print and contemplate shapes and silhouettes. It was important for me to take that time”, she said. “It was the first season we draped on the stand in a very complex way”. Her inspiration was taken also from landscapes, with the outfits’ remarkable prints -images of trees and iron bridges blurry skies, single streetlamp, misty moonlight- giving a magical note to the show. Although the collection was less vivid and hyper than what we have seen from her before, she surely took her work one step forward.

 

JULIEN MACDONALD: Viva Las Vegas

“I always do things that make me happy and reflect my life. Last year I went to Las Vegas and I had an amazing time. Everybody is dressed up there; everyone is a superstar; everyone parties night and day…in fact, there is no day, only night! Viva Las Vegas!”, declared the designer Julien Macdonald after his show. Indeed, that was what we saw: everything was all about showgirls and partygirls. Julien Macdonald showed a collection of sexy eveningwear and maybe early-hours-of-the-morning wear!  Short and shiny, gold and bold, body-conscious, all embellished and bejeweled with beads, sequins, rhinestones, tinsel, chains. Mesh and nude gauze inserts in the backs and the sides of the outfits.  Macdonald created the appropriate outfit for a glamorous party girl, who has her hair down, enjoys a cocktail and has a whole lot of fun.