NYFW: Anna Sui & Marc Jacobs

Text: Katerina Gkoumopoulou, Danae Terzakou

 

ANNA SUI: Paris 1960, Revisited.

A girl from Detroit that is considered to be fashion’s most lovable archaeologist. With her fashionable time-machine she managed to take us back to the 1960s. A collection highly inspired by the monochrome look of the Jean-Luc Godard’s –the massive French filmmaker- nouvelle vague classics, like the “Bande à part” or the “A Bout De Souffle”. A cultural blend of colours, textiles, patterns and accessories. Sui’s details and craftsmanship caught the essense of the era: the ultra girlie jumper dress, the boy-watcher sunglasses, the colored tights and the loafers, the knee-high socks, the shift and matching helmet in Courrèges-daisy-embroidered organza. Retro knits along with oversized, huge medallions, boxy fur jackets, wine-colored babydoll dresses and over the top capes and tres chic jackets. “Everything you come across you throw into the mix”, she said. A bit of Austin Powers groovyness with a touch of the sophistication of the 1960s.

Photos: Fillipo Fior/ InDigitalteam I GoRunway

 

MARC JACOBS: As Simple As It Gets

The sun set down on New York Fashion Week that very evening. Jacobs managed to lit his stage, using artificial, glowing suns. Some say it was the show of the week. Marc suggests a sexy, sophisticated yet simple look for next season. Pyjama like slinky textures and textiles, shirtdresses, drama snug tops, luxurious fur jackets, semi T-bar shoes and dazzling sequin dresses for the evening. For a more office look there were cable-knit sweaters, tailored blazers and vests, fox chubbies, scads of high-waisted briefs. No trace of make-up, however, all the models wore a shag wig, matching to their outfit. He stepped a decade back from his last season, the Sixties season, and as a result, his ex-muse Edie Sedgwick has now been replaced by a Hitchcock heroine. “Last season was all black and white, and life unfortunately isn’t that way, it’s all the shades of grey”, he said backstage. “I’ve felt out of sorts, and I wanted to see things sort of dismal and then still show the optimistic side”.

A very elegant but modest, chic and sophisticated collection with an alluring essence.

Photos: Gianni Pucci/ InDigital I GoRunway