NYFW: Derek Lam & Proenza Schouler

Text: Katerina Gkoumopoulou, Danae Terzakou

 

DEREK LAM: The Bohemian Spirit.

The Californian boy, known for his indie idiosyncrasy and his minimalist point of view, created a collection, based on his customer’s needs. “She’s got a bohemian spirit, but in a modern, controlled way”, he pointed out straight from the backstage.

A comfortable-cool collection with a discreet boho twist. Wearable and minimal, functional yet fashionable. An oversized cool line full of navy, black and white motifs, A-line dresses with clean cuts, bellow-the-knee skirts, in laid with suede and leather patches. A hymn of geometry and elegance. Graphic color-blocked T-shirts combined with ultra chic coats – it can either be a striking fur or a luxurious camel cape- and loose but swaggering navy pants made of satin. On the top of that, a simple yet sophisticated make-up, with stressed lips and loose hair.

Photos: Fillipo Fior/ InDigitam I Go Runway

 

 

PROENZA SCHOULER: Viva La Black & White

 

“It was all just soft, that’s the one word we were thinking about. Softness of form, softness of color, softness of texture”, said the designer duo for the FW 2013-14 collection. And soft it was! Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez took a 180o degree turn. The kaleidoscopic prints and vivid collages of their previous collection, have been replaced by fine, touchable, black n’ white,  motifs with only the slightest touct of mint and peach. Tweed buckled skirt-shirts, elegant cocktail dresses, stricking ostrich skirts were all over the place. At the same time va-va-voum guipure laced dresses combined with low-heeled shoes were giving a formal yet comfortable twist. No trace of make up along with a pixie haircut were concluding this already delicate look -something they were so eagerly trying to promote. “A softness and transparency and serenity, that’s what feels fresh to us. Our girl is still the same with her messed-up hair, it’s just different clothes, softer”, noted Hernandez from the backstage of the show. The highlight of the evening, the round forms of coats and jackets, a memento of the work of Cristobal Balenciaga. Rumors has it that the Proenza duo, are the most hard-working designers in fashion. The strict lines, the almost-perfect cuts proves their craftsmanship and mastery.

 

Photos: Marcus Tondo/ InDigitanteam I GoRunway