Text: Konstantina Livaditi, Sophia Karagianni
An “Ode to Delicateness”, that was the designer’s words for the collection. Dresses that follow the body line and emphasize on the waist, as well as more ethereal, with lengths ranging from the knee to the ankle. Sensual sheerness combined with luxurious silk and satin and delicate embellishments, married on a color palette from the romantic pastel blue and lilac, until the powerful red, were emphasizing more on the unending elegance, which dominates the fashion house.
Impeccable beadwork, along with embroidered lace or tulle created the princess of today.
Jean Paul Gaultier
A rich and varied collection was presented by Jean Paul Gaultier yesterday. Off-the-shoulder tops, long skirts shaped over the hips, asymmetric dresses, luxe skin tuxedos and tailoring, fancy-frilled maxi skirts, trousers and drapery with rich embroidery in yellow, red, orange and blue was reigned in Gaultier’s Haute Couture Collection. Patchwork and fringes gave also a Gipsy flavor to this collection and corseted underwear as outerwear made a suitably pneumatic appearance too. The outfit of the models competed with exotic chandelier earrings and hair piled up high. At the end of his show the bride’s overblown skirt lifted to give birth to four beautiful children, all dressed in neon shades, tha ran down the catwalk.
Inspired from 19th century, Maria Grazia Chiuru and Pierpaolo Piccoli, the duo behind Valentino house, ended the couture season. They were looking at the idea of formal and secret gardens, with mazes, ancient mosaics, and romantic flower plantings. “We really wanted to create a dream,” said Maria Grazia Chiuri during the fittings, “something really fantastic, magic, fairy tale. Couture is a dream, and we love to dream. Why not?”
The collection includes romantic gowns and dresses, in austere and definite lines, of different kinds lace or organza, which were intricately embroidered with butterflies, birds, crystals, topaz beads. However some of the dresses were unembellished and simple with more strict lines. It is worth mentioning that each dress is hand stitched and took up to 850 hours of artisan craftsmanship. The show ended with crinolines and Watteau-backed ball dresses.
The outfits of Valentino haute couture collection were done in ivory, black and
house’s signature red.
Maison Martin Margiela
The experimental perception and the playful wit of Maison Martin Margiela house, showed once more how to think outside of the conventional. The team of the fashion house made an up-cycling concept for its Artisanal collection. “Furs” from thousands of metallic wrappers embroidered onto silk, gave an edgy and different look to the collection.
Sleeveless, boxy silhouettes, along with sheer details and embroidered motifs
inspired by the 1920s, are reforming the new flapper dress, with the lengths ranging from mini to maxi. Trenches and parkas were also there, giving a whole different sense combined with dresses. The inventive headwraps that covered the faces of the models, as well as the circular block-heel ankle boots painted white, made even more intense the philosophy and the inventiveness of Margiela.